Surfed Popoyo from 7-9 am this morning. High tide was at 11:17 am. The strong offshore winds continued at about 10-15 mph with gusts up to 20. When I got there, I could tell it was running a little smaller today, average waves ridden were about chest high, with few head high sets. The crowd was light when I got there, with only 6 people including myself. Then, about 3 groups of 4 walked from the rivermouth and a boat pulled up. Suddenly, it was crowded with about 15 or more people and not many waves. One huge guy on a longboard ditched his longboard on a stomach high wave right in front of me. It almost took my head off, and he was totally oblivious. I decided that I would include some basic rules below for surfers to try to follow if they have an open mind. Anyway, the crowd only lasted for about 20 minutes, as everybody realized it was small and somewhat inconsistent. I surfed for another hour with only 5 people out including myself, and it turned out being a lot of fun, with smackable chest-high lefts bowling up on the inside, ultimately ending in a nice closeout section good for a re-entry or air. On the way home, my friend Segundo stopped by with two large rabollos on the handlebars of his bike that he caught at Popoyo this morning. He hooked us up with one, and we’re cooking it up as I type this.
It can be tough to catch waves at Popoyo at times. There are a few relatively close takeoff spots, and a small amount of good surfers can make it feel crowded. At times, there are few smiles in the water, as everyone is jockeying for position. Feel free to laugh off these “rules” if you wish. One of the great things about surfing is that it is an escape from the constrictions and order of everyday life. Surfing should be fun. Lighten up and smile. If we all try to follow some or all of these rules the best we can, surfing will be more enjoyable for everyone. You know when you’re catching a lot of waves, and isn’t it so gratifying when you tell a friend or a stranger to go on a choice wave? Another wave will always come, and the best surfers who have honestly put in their time and dedication in the water usually get the best waves, right?
10 Basic Rules
1. If you decide to go surfing with your friends and the break seems somewhat crowded, do not enter the water all at the same time, but go out seperately. Don’t make it look like an invasion. Don’t paddle out straight to where everyone is, instead wait on the side for a while and take your time.
2. Once in the line up, do your best to day, “Hello,” to the others, even if nobody answers back. Remember that what really counts is your intention.
3. Wait your turn, do not paddle towards the inside for priority if you look like you want to catch all the waves, don’t be surprised if others drop in on you. Don’t be aggressive.
4. When you paddle for a wave… catch it! I you refuse to go without a good reason, the locals won’t give you another chance. Remember a wipe out is always better than missing a virgin wave. The really good waves don’t appear every second.
5. Respect priority! The surfer who stands up the closest to the peak has priority (even if you stand up first because you have a longboard). If you drop in, don’t just disappear, make sure to apologize with respect.
6. When you paddle back to the line up, be aware of the others. The ones surfing the waves have the priority over those paddling in. If you have to change direction, always paddle towards the white water; it’s the only means of leaving the way clear for those surfing.
7. Don’t yell after catching or loosing a wave. And don’t keep calling your friends in the water. The majority of surfers like to concentrate while waiting for sets and the shouting can be distracting.
8. Leave some waves for the others. Do not abuse your priority, even more important to remember when you have the advantage of a longboard, evolutive board, bodyboard, etc.
9. When you are about to get worked by a set and have to let go of your board, be really careful that you don’t hurt someone around you in the water.
10. Make a ritual of picking up a few pieces of trash before or after each session. It’s a win-win situation and you will probably get somebody else thinking about doing the same thing!
{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }
Hi! I was surfing and found your blog post… nice! I love your blog.
Cheers! Sandra. R.